It’s of-fish-al: British chippy opens in Chengdu

Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province, southwest China, lies about 300km - or a mere 90 minute high-speed train ride - from Chongqing, and is known for its rich culture and world-renowned food. Despite the two cities’ (relative) proximity, they could not be more different, with Chengdu’s flat terrain and low rise city centre, and its abundance of international restaurants in Taikoo Li, a replica of the chill-vibe, up-market, outdoor, multi-level Beijing shopping district. Its geography is not dissimilar from many of the other cities I’ve visited during my travels with the British Embassy, and with each one, my love for Chongqing’s mountainous topography, unique character and sheer scale is cemented a little more.

But then one day, Scotts opened, and Ash - and I, by virtue of tagging along - got to dip our toe in a blossoming love story between Great Britain and China.

Once upon a time, there lived a little family-friendly fish and chip café in Bolborough, York, UK, run by local businessman Tony Webster. Fast forward six years and he would be on his first trip to China, shaking hands with the owner of Scotts first sister restaurant in Chengdu’s Taikoo Li, and officially opening the country’s first ever British chippy.

Scotts skyrocketed to fame amongst Chinese people in 2015 when then UK Prime Minister David Cameron took China’s President Xi Jinping to visit and have a taste of this quintessentially British food. The story went viral all over the world across traditional and social media both at home and in China, and now the original Scotts in York receives scores of Chinese tourist coaches each week after they jumped on the marketing opportunity to promote the brand and the must-do activity of visiting a chippy whilst visiting the UK.  

The opening ceremony and Tony’s first visit to China took plaice (see what I did there?) on Saturday 23 November 2019, and included speeches, a ribbon cutting, signing a Scotts logo board, plenty of photos, celebratory champagne and an abundance of moist and flaky, lightly battered fish, chips, chicken, shrimp, tartare sauce, lemon-infused mayonnaise and, of course, a Sichuan-style spicy sauce to satisfy local palates. Ash gave a speech on behalf of the British Consulate-General, and was a guest alongside representatives from the British Chamber of Commerce and the China Britain Business Council, as well as local Chinese business owners and media.

Chatting to the staff at the restaurant, they told us that they are still refining their menu (which includes classic fish and chips, sausage, spaghetti bolognese and battered mars bars), as the portion sizes are too big for their local customers who aren’t used to the flavours and style of food on offer. Whilst it wasn’t exactly like the chippy tea you’re used to from days at the seaside, I think it will get there in time. They have worked extremely hard at perfecting the fish - Tony’s priority - avoiding too-thick batter and dry fish fillets. I have to say, despite all the moans and groans I received whilst ordering a battered Mars Bar, it went down an absolute treat amongst the Brits, but our Chinese friends took some persuading to try it (which is funny, considering the unmentionable parts of animals they’ll happily chuck into a hotpot). There’s still no mushy peas available, and the chunky chips are a little too much like the chips you’d get in any restaurant around Chengdu, but the funky 3D-printed restaurant which mimicks Scotts in York and the fold-away tables built into the walls give it a real modern feel of home, a mere 6000km to the east.

Did you know?

China is a hugely important market for the UK food and drink sector, and is growing. In 2018, UK food and beverage (F&B) exports to China totalled more than £623m, making China the UK’s 8th largest F&B export market, thanks to the UK’s international reputation for high quality products; exceptional standards and quality control across the industry; and sustainable practices. It is also benefiting hugely also from the increasing awareness and recognition of the UK’s quality F&B by the growing nunmber of Chinese consumers.

Fish and chips is synonymous with UK cuisine. The dish originated in England well over 150 years ago in the 1860s and has become a staple in British culture ever since, and is an incredibly popular takeaway option in the UK, Ireland and other countries including English-speaking Commonwealth nations. By the 1930s there were more than 35000 fish and chips shops; nowadays there are around 10,000 and almost no town or village in the UK is without at least one ‘chippy’.

When we agreed to move to Chongqing, we never dreamed that would include having the opportunity to attend the official opening ceremony of a British chippy in China; and it just shows how fast this market is moving - they’ve got their eye on Chongqing as their next location. Whilst China is a very different experience, it’s nice to know that with Scotts just up the road, we’re never too far away from a taste of home.